Another roll, steamed rice crepes wrapped around crumbled pork sausage, is also good, served with thin slices of a milder sausage, somewhat like the Italian mortadella ($3.75).

My favorite dosa was the cheese masala ($6.95), a rolled rice crepe with melting cheese on its inner wall and an onion and potato filler.

Banh cuon ($4.95) is also a superb appetizer, a soft cylindrical rice crepe stuffed with chicken, mushrooms and carrots and served with the piquant nuoc cham.

H Map Many of the dishes at this warm Argyle St eatery require some assembly, pairing shrimp, beef or squid with rice crepes, mint, Thai basil and lettuce.

The filling in steamed rice crepes with pork ($4.25) seemed skimpy and looked like mushroom duxelles, but was actually made of deeply fragrant bits of pork.

As an appetizer, Harding dusted the bluefish with crushed peanuts and wrapped the cooked meat in rice crepes filled with fresh savoy cabbage, lemongrass pickle and cellophane noodles.

The Vietnamese crispy crepe is a wonderful melange of shrimp, chicken, bean sprouts and onion flavored with coconut milk enclosed in a rice crepe and baked to a golden crisp.

The traditional masala dosa - a crisp, paper-thin rice crepe, so large it hangs off the plate - enclosed a soft, mild-tasting mixture of potatoes and peas.

More delicate, even with the strong flavor of nuoc mam, is a steamed rice crepe cut into chunks and served with bits of chicken, shrimp and mushroom.

A steamed rice crepe is cut into chunks and served with bits of chicken, jicama and shiitake mushrooms.