They went door-to-door peddling the eggs they had personally gathered from upstate farmers in a Model T, sometimes sleeping in barns overnight.

Most Successful Year "We have been operating for seven years with five upstate farmers," Mrs. Schmidt said.

Mr. Thompson believes this annual event marked the breaking up of ice on the Hudson, after which upstate farmers could ship their cattle to New York for sale.

The problems began in 1992, when a speedway that had been closed for five years roared back to life after town officials swiftly approved a special-use permit for an upstate farmer.

So far, he has rallied 25 upstate farmers to his cause, their herds ranging from 10 to 400 head.

Mr. Schumer was violently attacked for voting against relief for upstate farmers after an ice storm.

A young New York lawyer named Meyer Parodneck proposed a way to link the upstate farmers and the city dwellers, and to resolve each group's problems.

Both chefs have promoted the virtues of fresh local produce and plan to buy from upstate farmers whenever practical.

She buys bread from a local bakery, organic milk from Pennsylvania, goat cheese and cheddar cheese from upstate farmers.

Private wind companies are leasing land from upstate farmers to install turbines, negotiating fees privately, said Mr. Collins.