The kitchen is at its best with such unfussy food.

The kitchen is at its best with unfussy food, like perhaps the most perfect duck in the city, beautifully presented broiled Dover sole and impeccable smoked salmon.

His specialty is lusty, unfussy food with robust flavors.

These restaurants serve robust, unfussy food, and, as a bonus, almost always have excellent wine lists.

Brasseries and bistros, their first cousins, offer nonintimidating, familiar, unfussy food.

Silesu isn't interested in interior design, but in serving good, unfussy food at knockdown prices.

The subtle, unfussy food includes chicken with 40 cloves of garlic, lemon sole meunière, and roast stuffed saddle of rabbit.

The chef, Scott Bryan, one of four owners, serves clean, unfussy food that works well with the wine.

The kitchen is at its best with unfussy food, like grilled veal chop, blackened tuna and perhaps the most perfect duck in the city.

For the past decade or so and, it seems, now more than ever, that means rustic, unfussy food, the kind of food that women have always liked to cook.