The lobster is smoked and grilled at the same time over a wood-fired grate and served with aromatic tarragon butter.

Also excellent is grilled chicken with tarragon butter and brittle, firm-textured french fries.

Lobster fans might consider the grilled two-pounder, glossed with tarragon butter.

And parchment-skinned grilled chicken glossed with tarragon butter comes with superb shoestring potatoes ($18).

About one pound (15 crayfish) boiled in a pepper, leek and onion broth with tarragon butter comes as part of the $18 fixed-price menu.

Try the freshwater fish known as marbled goby, tempura-fried, with a sauce of Meaux mustard, watercress and tarragon butter.

Divide the tarragon butter into four portions and stuff into the fish.

'All the restaurants are very good and one of the specialities is tail of lobster which they do in various ways, with garlic butter or tarragon butter.'

The evening's fish was roast loin of locally caught monkfish, exceptionally firm and flavorful, dressed only with tarragon butter.

Using your fingers, push half the tarragon butter under the skin, spreading it out as far back and around as you can.