And his crunchy, spicy soft-shell crabs topped with lump crab meat were the stuff of a crustacean addict's reverie.

Crisp and spicy soft-shell crabs were well turned out.

There are more than 120 dishes on the menu - from the classic beef and duck with coconut milk and bamboo to the more unusual tourteau à la diable (spicy devilled crab).

In season, there are tables of still steaming, spicy crabs, and bins of shellfish.