When the wearer moves, the silk Jacquard lining peeks out of a slit in the skirt.

What sets it apart is not the pattern (silver dots on a dark blue background) or the fabric (silk Jacquard), but the credit-card-size video camera just below the knot.

Among his designs were a natural cotton dress padded with red cotton and embroidered with silver, white silk Jacquard skirts with wrap tops, and simple silk dresses with antique Japanese fabrics sewn in asymmetrical swaths.

With a view of a meadow and a changeable sky, Miss von Etzdorf imbues silk Jacquard, velvet and chiffon with vibrant swirls, diamonds and stripes.

She combines it with putty-colored silk Jacquards for tank tops with deep U-necks or V-necks, narrow trousers and skirts with inset triangles or a soft saronglike fold on one side.

Vests, like ties, have become an article of clothing in which even the conversative can indulge in sartorial splendor, and routinely show up in silk Jacquard, quilted suede or velvet.

There are also variations on the tunic (in mink shaved to resemble crocodile skin), jackets that gave the illusion of layers, and simply-cut dresses in gray wool or silk Jacquard with short, blousy sleeves and a tie streaming seductively down the back.

The 61-year-old business has been at 263 West 40th Street since 1955 and is patronized by Broadway costume designers like Martha Bromelmeier, who was scouting the other day for silk Jacquard.

And in black, with touches like leather lapels, or in a black-on-black silk Jacquard, some one-buttons also work as tuxedo jackets that can be paired with jeans for a kind of "Ocean's Eleven" (or Twelve) spin on black tie.