One of the most outstanding starters is gang sarong ($6.95), or four deep-fried jumbo shrimp wrapped in crisp chow mein-style noodles, a taste and textural treat.

And iso age: shrimp that are rolled in noodles, topped with prickly leaves of pungent shiso, wrapped in seaweed and deep-fried.

Ron enjoys the banquet's bacon-wrapped shrimp, "my number one favorite food, wrapped around my number three favorite food".

Other plates were more artfully presented, especially the grilled jumbo shrimp stuffed with fresh asparagus and mozzarella, wrapped in Parma prosciutto and served in a pungent pesto sauce, along with golden-brown sea scallops over angel hair pasta.

The Great Wall is embossed with a symbol of Morgan City: a giant shrimp wrapped around an oil well.

An appetizer special one night, shrimp wrapped in bacon over barely cooked baby spinach with a drizzle of Pernod-spiked cream sauce, deserved its designation as special.

And chao tom, grilled shrimp wrapped around a length of sugar cane (you chew on the cane for sweetness), are tough.

We recognized with pleasure several dishes from the old place, notably camarones: six jumbo shrimp wrapped in bacon and cilantro and grilled with jalapenos and garlic.

Among the starters are crunchy deep-fried minced shrimp with Thai spices wrapped in bean curd, and the kingfish dumplings perfumed with curry served with sliced cucumbers soaked in a tart fermented fish sauce that has just a hint of sweetness.

Shrimp cooked just about any way "Put a few bite-sized shrimp on the end of a skewer with a little decorative piece of tarragon or basil or snow pea or something wrapped around it.