Similarly, gung gratiem ($14.50), shrimp sauteed with garlic and onions, lacks a spicy dimension.

Rounding out the selection are an aromatic mussel soup colored with saffron and simple but tasty shrimp sauteed with herbs, lemon and white wine.

Among seafood selections, the most reliable dishes are the shrimp sauteed in herbs and wine, and salmon with Champagne.

From the menu, jumbo shrimp sauteed with artichokes, garlic, basil and white wine is a fine seafood pick.

Also drawing favorable notice were the shrimp sauteed with sliced baby artichokes aglow with olive oil.

A special of shrimp sauteed with garlic is equally well turned out, as is the lean, semi-dry bresaola set over salad greens in vinaigrette.

The shrimp sauteed in garlic and a touch of hot peppers are succulent and mildly hot.

Shrimp St. Tropez ($7.50) is another big appetizer, the shrimp sauteed with garlic, tomatoes and artichoke hearts.

A better pick from the list of specialties is the salted prawns, whole shrimp sauteed with garlic and salt.

Only shrimp sauteed with white wine and garlic had any character.