Another captivating combination is called roast rabbit and its lettuces: moist, dark morsels of rabbit atop a melange of sauteed greens.

You might start with mussels steamed with Pernod and sweet-red-pepper butter; mint-cured gravlax with cucumbers and creme fraiche, or baked goat cheese on sauteed greens with garlic croutons.

One of the courses is veal medallion stuffed with vegetable pate braised in sage sauce and served over sauteed greens with a $19.95 merlot accompanying the food.

A light wild mushroom strudel, roasted clams casino boasting crisp bacon, and three slabs of rare yellowfin tuna garnished with sauteed greens keep the winning streak going.

Among the main courses are spicy rosemary chicken with sauteed greens and garlic, braised beef shank with lentils and a tomato and red wine sauce, and grilled Atlantic salmon with balsamic vinegar and endive.

The potato dumplings are drizzled with lemon and garlic and served with sauteed greens.

Grilled jumbo shrimp were deftly prepared and served with sauteed mixed greens, spinach and a thick sweet-pepper bordelaise sauce.

Entrees include grilled chicken, which has been marinated in crushed red peppers and garlic; braised rabbit on a bed of creamy polenta, and a grilled veal chop with sauteed bitter greens.

Salmon cakes (lightly packed with bits of red and green peppers) with sauteed greens and tartar sauce elicited a ho-hum response: not bad, just nothing special.

Nonpork highlights include crisp, tender quail ($12.95), subtly flavored with five-spice powder, and simple but flavorful sauteed greens ($7.95).