Tuna livornese was nearly saved by its savory sauce, but nothing could rescue a bland, overdone piece of salmon wrapped in foil.

A fillet of wild salmon wrapped with a leaf of prosciutto, paired with a brisk tomato-chive emulsion, struck a beautiful balance between fat and salt.

Then comes my poached salmon wrapped with halibut on tomato risotto, with wilted kale and butter sauce, which is nice but unexciting.

Tempura, steamed clams and teriyaki await the unadventurous, but there are also monkfish liver pate paired with pinwheels of salmon wrapped in marinated kelp.

It's more of a salmon steak en croute, with the salmon wrapped in a basil crepe to keep the pastry from getting too soggy.

Main courses include herb-crusted grilled tuna and stuffed salmon wrapped in phyllo pastry.

A thick piece of salmon wrapped in spinach came in a creamy caviar sauce.

Kulebyaka ($15.95), baked salmon wrapped in puff pastry in the shape of an incredibly detailed fish, is a show-stopper that unfortunately looks better than it tastes.

Main courses include herb-crusted grilled tuna and salmon wrapped in grape leaves and poached in wine.

After a dinner of salmon wrapped in radicchio cooked by Mary Alice, Mr. Gass leans back to talk of writing and writers.