Dishes include French toast with apple compote and maple syrup, and poached eggs served on a croissant with smoked salmon, topped with hollandaise and capers.

Pop-up: Spiced salmon with shrimp, crab and cucumber, topped with the salty crunch of tobiko, or flying fish roe.

A soft, juicy, grilled salmon ($17) entree topped with a splash of cilantro-cashew pesto was flaky and fine.

The first consisted of fillets of marinated salmon topped with chopped arugula and fresh red currants.

Smoked salmon topped with chopped onions and capers is classic.

Equally appealing was a Napoleon-layering of crisp, thin pastry leaves interlaced with marinated salmon, topped by a goat cheese foam and a dollop of carrot-dill sauce.

The worst was parched salmon topped with an equally dry and slightly singed stuffing said to be crab.

A strong-tasting fillet of wild salmon topped with a smoked salmon soufflé was also overdone.

Couscous surrounds a serving of delicately sauteed salmon ($15), topped with diced tomatoes, herbs and lemon juice.

The most ornate dish is seared salmon topped with edible flowers.