Specialties include salmon terrine, thickly cut beef with cider sauce, and homemade pastries.

Hors d'oeuvres include: salmon terrine, chicken liver, tuna in sauce, fish terrine, duck mousse, etc.

We were adjusting the seasoning in a salmon terrine, and had nervously added what we thought to be the appropriate amount.

Highlights of its holiday menu include a salmon terrine ($16 a pound) and superb brisket of beef with horseradish or black currant sauce ($18.50 a pound).

Other appealing dishes were salmon terrine with eel, veal loin with spinach and mustard, and smoked suckling pig.

The salmon terrine with green lentils ($6.95) is attractive and well textured, but boring.

Potato-filled ravioli with white truffle garnish were seductive atop a mixed vegetable sauce, although a smoked salmon terrine with foie gras and caviar packed too much salt.

His layered smoked salmon terrine has a similar problem.

Mushroom soup was a tad thin but sublimely flavorful; the smoked salmon terrine with horseradish and capers - scented with lemon verbena oil - was more successful.

Specialties include salmon terrine, quail in pastry, noisettes of local lamb in a port wine sauce and, for dessert, lemon syllabub and bread-and-butter pudding.