The menu featured a 19th-century-style dinner, including porridge of smoked turkey Vanderbilt and head-to-toe roasted salmon.

I chose it over roasted salmon and roasted Amish chicken.

His roasted salmon comes with cabbage, horseradish potatoes and a vivid red wine sauce.

A special one night of roasted salmon ($14.75) was perfectly grilled and served with an excellent light tomato sauce.

The moist, flaky fish is a much better pick than the roasted salmon, which was overcooked.

And the restaurant pays more attention to seafood than most of the others do, with whole roasted salmon wheeled to the table for carving.

Salads, so often overlooked, are especially interesting, as are main courses like roasted salmon with lobster mashed potatoes.

Simply prepared roasted salmon ($15), served with spinach, was a fine piece of fish.

Buttery roasted salmon was nicely accompanied by fresh egg noodles.

Also drawing raves was the roasted Scottish salmon, which separated into satiny flakes at the touch of a fork.