Although it's more expensive than the regional wines, it is sold all over the country.

Further luck would bring a rise in regional wines that express local soils.

"We find that concentrating on a regional wine is best for us," Michael Johnson said.

A selection of uncommon regional wines runs from about $11 to $30.

He also looks for unusual regional wines, which offer two benefits: guests don't know what they cost and are excited to see something new.

There are more cellars in the village, where the regional wines can be tasted.

A six-session introductory course and others on French regional wines are $250 to $300.

If that all seems too rich, try some of the equally strong and assertive regional wines instead.

He will also stock regional Italian wines not normally available in a neighborhood restaurant.

Excellent list of regional wines; $39 for three courses, not four.