And in 1997, Mr. Robledo opened his winery, which produces 5,000 cases annually of nine red and white varietals, including dessert wines.

Over the last decade, the Spanish wine authorities have paid farmers to plant red varietals in place of viura.

Region is know for its white varietals Semillon and Sauvignon blanc, and its red varietals Merlot, Pinot noir and Malbec.

There are many red and white varietals grown, but the only ones used for dessert wines are the Pedro Ximénez and Moscatel.

In some cases, notably with "delicate" red varietals such as Pinot noir or Syrah, all or part of the grapes might be left uncrushed (called "whole berry") to encourage the retention of fruity aromas through partial carbonic maceration.

You might get three viogniers, for example ($10), or a flight of red varietals: one each of grenache, cinsault, carignane, mourvedre and syrah ($14).

"A hundred acres is about the limit for handpicking," Mr. Cannac said, adding that Duck Walk, the Island's second-largest operation, has about 120 acres of red and white varietals planted on both forks.

Distilled in an old imported alembic, his brandies are made from the colombard grapes, also commonly used in Cognac, as well as large amounts of pinot noir and gamay beaujolais, red varietals that add complexity and a floral note in the nose.

The red varietals are the most common.

Since then, red varietals have regained some ground but remain a relatively minor part of regional production.