Don't miss the pumpkin custard.

If you are eager to sample Bangkok City's desserts, the pumpkin custard, topped with simply steamed pumpkin slices, is warm and sweet, though somewhat messy.

A surprisingly good dessert here was the dense, flavorful pumpkin custard ($2.50), creamy and not too sweet.

And then there is dessert: the fresh fig tart is wonderful with its pumpkin custard and the slightly bitter coffee granita is splendidly refreshing.

Try crustless, low-fat pumpkin custard, or low-fat pumpkin muffins.

The intensely sweet desserts, particularly a pale pumpkin custard served atop bright orange kabocha squash, were more interesting the usual Asian offerings.

And although the fabulous fresh fig tart with its pumpkin custard has been retired for the season, I'm looking forward to its return.

For dessert, try the sticky rice with mango or the pumpkin custard.

Maureen Steppe makes desserts like weightless pumpkin custard with bourbon cream and, sturdier, old-fashioned pineapple upside-down cake with rum cream.

Judson Grill in midtown offers "double-layered pumpkin custard with sun-dried cherry strudel and orange sauce" ($8).