D Map This is generally considered the best place in town for dim sum, and is especially popular for Saturday and Sunday brunch.

LEAD: Ambassador Grill Ambassador Grill One of the more popular brunches in town, especially among big eaters, is at the Ambassador Grill in the United Nations Plaza Hotel (44th Street and First Avenue).

The menu includes steak and pasta but also imaginative dishes like black grouper seared with sake and ginger; closed for lunch but there is a popular brunch on weekends.

They also do a popular easy-listening Sunday brunch (€35 or €55 for two adults and two children).

Cafe Victor, around the corner at 8 Ny Ostergade, (45) 3313-3613, is a stylish bar in black and white, popular with the cognoscenti for drinks, late snacks or Sunday brunch.

I can't overlook the popular and crowded brunch, where buckwheat pancakes with pecans ($4.75) were great.