Complex, persistent flavors.

Even with the smaller amount of the clarified brown butter, its persistent flavor emerges with each mouthful of soup.

Labouré-Roi Pouilly-Fuissé Vallon d'Or 2001 $14 *** [rating: three stars] Clean and pure, with well-focused, persistent floral and mineral flavors.

Pikes Clare Valley 2003 $18 ** 1/2 [Rating: Two and a half Stars] Complex aromas of tropical fruit, flowers and minerals; balanced, with persistent flavors.

Stolpman Rhone Ridge Cuvée Santa Ynez Valley 2000: $15 ** [Rating: Two stars] Rich and aromatic with persistent flavors, but very oaky.

Simi Alexander Valley $22 ** 1/2 [Rating: Two and a Half Stars] Jammy fruit aromas; spicy, persistent flavors and good structure.

Château Olivier Pessac-Léognan $22 ** 1/2 [Rating: Two and a Half Stars] Soft and fruity, well knit and pleasing with persistent flavors.

Copain Anderson Valley $51 *** [rating: three stars] Hein Vineyard Alluring aromas of tart cherries, strawberries and earth; medium-bodied with persistent flavors.

Stone I.P.A. $4 *** [rating: three stars] San Diego 22 ounces Balanced and harmonious, with plenty of hop aromas; lively, complex and persistent flavors.

Niebaum-Coppola Blancaneaux Napa Valley 2003: $45 ** 1/2 [Rating: Two and a Half Stars] Clean, balanced and almost elegant with subtle, persistent flavors.