Inside is perfectly steamed red snapper over summery, aromatic ratatouille.

It's all tender white meat, carefully sauced (that is, there is no pooling beneath, no sheen of grease), with perfectly steamed broccoli.

The shore dinner is $21.95: a cup of creamy chowder; a perfectly steamed lobster (pick it if you like), half a chicken, vegetables, potatoes, pie and coffee.

Consider his perfectly steamed lobster, with Manila clams, mussels and sausage.

La Metairie serves a giant oval platter with couscous under three perfectly steamed filets: striped bass, red snapper and grouper.

Side dishes include perfectly steamed broccoli rape ($3.95) with garlic and oil, or truly creamy creamed spinach ($3.95), which puts some steakhouse versions to shame.

For the most authentically nostalgic experience, stay with the simplest dishes, like perfectly steamed lobsters, clams and oysters on the half shell and shore dinners.

Here was a textbook example of fine French cookery, from the masterly grilling to the flawless sauce bearnaise, to perfectly steamed potatoes.

My first meal in the large, handsome space was impressive: excellent Asian shrimp dumplings were followed by a perfectly steamed lobster served with bright green steamed broccoli.

One of the current seafood specials is outstanding, perfectly steamed fillet of sea bass set over a bed of fennel and tomatoes.