The main course was perfectly roasted Chilean sea bass over a red-wine demi-glace with crisp asparagus spears and a creamy wild mushroom risotto.

Most memorable was a perfectly roasted slab of turbot with a shellfish broth, accompanied by miniature parsley-filled ravioli.

The best of the entrees was perfectly roasted rack of lamb, a mighty portion of five chops.

We tasted it with a perfectly roasted halibut enhanced by wild mushrooms and white truffle oil.

A haystack of needle-thin fries is heaped around a perfectly roasted chicken.

On two occasions, we received undercooked hard garlic while diners at neighboring tables were enjoying perfectly roasted treats.

Plain, perfectly roasted chicken was nothing one would leave home for.

A recent special of sliced leg of lamb ($13.75) was beautifully cooked, served with perfectly roasted new potatoes, done to a crusty turn.

ONE of the most attractive sights on a dinner table is a perfectly roasted bird with a crisp, bronzed skin.

Even something as simple as perfectly roasted chicken with Provencal vegetables and winter savory can be memorable.