I liked seafood fried rice ($8.95) almost as much, made with perfectly fried fish.

The perfectly fried ringlets are tucked in a white napkin and served with a spicy tomato sauce and wedges of lemon.

A perfectly fried sole sandwich ($14) restores order.

On second thought, maybe that award goes to Crisp's burrito, filled with perfectly fried chicken in a savory soy-ginger sauce.

The dish itself turned out to be a perfectly fried fritter stuffed with garlic-scented goat cheese.

Or a perfectly fried red snapper ($15), the flesh still moist and flavorful within the crisp, crackling skin.

Baby sole was perfectly fried, the essence of delicacy.

The perfectly fried shrimp with tartar sauce ($12.60) even takes a prosaic staple of seaside dining to a new level.

The piled-high plate of perfectly fried shoestring onion rings ($4.95), listed as a side dish, made a wonderful shared opener.

The squid were tender, lightly and perfectly fried (not thickly deep-fried and greasy).