One night, it was a diver scallop encrusted with rösti potatoes sitting on a green pea sauce.

The menu will include morel and English pea risotto; wild striped bass with caramelized fennel and minted pea sauce; and whole roasted lamb with Provençal vegetables, olives and violet-mustard jus.

We might revive from our hot walk with a lunch of crisp-skin salmon fillet, served on spring onion and Parmesan risotto with green pea sauce and, of course, one of Mudbrick's island-grown wines, probably their faintly citrus chardonnay.

In one of the more unusual presentations I've seen, a thick circle of salmon comes with leeks wrapped around the circumference like a ribbon, and it is served with caramelized onions and fava beans in a bright pea sauce ($15).

Flaky, shiny, cedar-planked salmon on soft, soothing straw mushroom-flecked sticky rice risotto is replete with pea-specked sweet pea sauce.

Do them in parts: the lobster and its pea sauce, without the red wine sauce, lemon shallots and ravioli; or the rösti potato halibut with the fennel confit but no rhubarb.

Meanwhile, gently warm the pea sauce and the shrimp sauce in separate pots over low heat, without letting them reach a simmer.

Ladle a few tablespoons of pea sauce onto the centers of 6 plates.

Ladle more pea sauce around the vegetables, and then drizzle the shrimp sauce over the fish and around the edge of the plate.

This, like a frothy pea sauce served with salmon, is a sprightly counterpart to seafood.