There are novel selections, like trenette, a long thin lemon pasta tossed with sardines and Sicilian oranges ($15.95).

And it was just lovely with pasta tossed with artichoke sauce, tuna, capers and basil.

(If pasta is ready first, drain it and toss with a small amount of olive oil.)

When pasta is done, drain and toss with egg mixture.

We went on to pasta tossed with fresh sardines and a single, exquisitely grilled sole.

And while pasta tossed with chili peppers, tomatoes and what looks like an entire head of garlic is perfectly acceptable, it is not more than that.

Skip the angel-hair pasta tossed with shrimp, spinach and tomatoes.

There are colorful pastas tossed with mushrooms, clams or soft-shell crabs.

Pastas are the strong suit here, including spaghetti alla chitarra, hand-cut pasta tossed with basil and tomatoes.

It's not much really, just pasta tossed with potatoes, green beans and a perfect pesto sauce, but it says everything about balance and flavor.