One of the restaurant's best-selling specialties, Paul's Fantasy - pan-fried trout with grilled shrimp and cubed, sautéed new potatoes, all fearlessly seasoned - is named for him.

Try the pan-fried trout, soft-shell crabs, gumbo and crawfish bisque; two can stuff themselves and have a beer for no more than $40.

Also successful is the pan-fried trout with red beans, yellow rice and an unexpectedly spicy mango sauce.

One such dish is pan-fried speckled trout, a Louisiana standard.

Butter-sautéed chunks of pristine lump crabmeat top a delicate filet of pan-fried speckled trout ($25.50).

This noble sentiment ignores all those stories we read about delicious pan-fried trout.

The pan-fried trout, rolled in fresh pecans or stuffed with almonds, is a favorite.

The Baltic countries, for me, mean brisk herring-and-salami eye-openers, and Wyoming means tinglingly fresh pan-fried trout with hash browns.

On the rotating menu will be grilled smoked salmon, barbecued oysters over wild rice and pan-fried trout.

Take the pan-fried Adirondack trout: Stuffed with pecan-studded corn bread and moist with Chardonnay-chive butter, this was the best trout we have enjoyed in years.