A skewer of tomatoes and peppers, no matter how nicely charred, apparently doesn't win a backyard chef many plaudits.

The three jumbos were nicely charred but suffered from an over-zealous hit of lemon juice.

Hanger steak ($14.75), nicely charred and seasoned, if occasionally too rare, is heavy with oversize onion rings and garlicky beans.

One compelling appetizer was grilled Georgia quail, nicely charred and moist, over a delightful mound of creamed collard greens.

I found the steak nicely charred on the outside, but the meat was much too moist, which softens the texture and obscures the flavor.

The onions, nicely charred outside, had a sharp bite tempered by sweetness, just enough to play up the almost gamy richness of the mushrooms.

Spareribs are meaty and nicely charred.

Grilled octopus is fresh and nicely charred, too ($7).

When the sirloin is good, it is first rate, flavorful and nicely charred.

Shell steak ($12) is beefy and nicely charred, with a sweet glaze.