A good example is his house-made pasta with tenerumi, the green leaves of long cucuzza squash, a preparation straight from the thrifty peasant kitchen.

The recipes are traditional - beef carpaccio, veal Milanese, house-made pasta, wild-mushroom risotto - but presented with a contemporary style that matches the elegant, continental dining room.

Ponder the beauty of Marilyn, Audrey and other classic Hollywood stars as you sit in this art-deco-inspired dining room and munch on tender-crusted thin pizzas and house-made pastas.

The compact menu is northern Italian, with five bruschetta combinations and house-made pastas among the many strong suits.

The house-made pastas I sampled were superb.

Here, too, the specialties are grilled steaks and other meats, accompanied by a variety of house-made pastas.

Weekdays the wood bar is lined with working stiffs, ties tossed over one shoulder and hair tucked behind ears to dive into house-made pasta.

It's an entertaining view of house-made pastas being cooked to order, but it also displays Supper struggling at busy hours to serve food at a proper pace and sequence.

Flatbread pizzas, house-made pastas and flame-licked meats get top billing.

Or the special mouth feel of house-made pasta?