A selection of tapas ($9.50), including tender fried calamari and roasted mushrooms, is a better starter than chewy grilled ribs ($9).

Though meaty and tender, they lack a true smokey tang or the crusty exterior of conventionally grilled ribs.

In the last week I've eaten it with grilled ribs, grilled pork chops, grilled shrimp and grilled chicken.

Whatever the verdict, you'll love it, just like you'll love the grilled ribs ($258) and the fusion desserts.

One of Ms. Shever's clients, for example, stipulated that her dog be fed barbeque chicken in the morning and grilled ribs at night.

This sleek and airy dining room serves a little something for everyone, from macaroni and cheese to grilled braised short ribs.

There is even a grilled rib of beef for two with roasted potatoes and grilled tomatoes at $11.50 a person.

Wild boar, served as a special grilled rib chop, was sinewy and chewy.

Beef lovers are advised to pick the roasted and grilled prime rib ($18) over the more expensive New York sirloin ($23).

Crispy rock shrimp is a terrific appetizer, while Mom's meatloaf, roast chicken and grilled short ribs are all excellent versions of familiar favorites.