I loved the grilled figs wrapped in pancetta, stuffed with Gorgonzola and paired with salad, but the portion was skimpy: two very tiny pieces of fruit.

A local goat cheese, breaded and baked, was paired with sweet grilled fresh figs as a garnish to a Vidalia onion risotto.

At the Dining Room on the Upper East Side, Mark Spangenthal serves his sorbet with a grilled fig tart to add a savory quality to the dessert.

Another good starter is grilled ripe figs wrapped in pancetta with wonderful soft gorgonzola on the side, a lovely combination.

Main courses, available for $17 to $21, vary seasonally as well, like the meaty, fatty and juicy slices of pork loin that shed their accompaniment of spring onions for the resolutely summery companionship of grilled figs.

A more powerful salad features arugula, pancetta, Chenel goat cheese, pecans and grilled figs; a double portion of this would satisfy me as a main course at almost any meal.

Among the starters, the airy mound of arugula supported by four grilled figs stuffed with Gorgonzola and prosciutto was especially appealing.

He sautes black fish with star anise and surrounds it with grilled figs so that the fish becomes a vehicle for the seasonings.

A plate of lovely grilled figs came with greens, goat cheese and honey-roasted walnuts.

His foie gras is surrounded by fruit - roasted apples, grilled figs, Concord grapes - and touched with balsamic vinegar.