While some Chateauneufs today are made in a lighter, fruitier style, many still pack the traditional muscular wallop.

Beaujolais in the south, close to the Rhône Valley region, where mostly red wines are made in a fruity style that is usually consumed young.

Critics such as Robert M. Parker, Jr. have influenced New World producers and consumers towards a fruitier style, with more use of new oak.

Louis Jadot, a Burgundy house, makes its Beaujolais-Villages in a Burgundian style - fuller and less fruity, and an interesting contrast - at about $9.

The lovers of barrel-fermented chardonnay are not shortchanged, and those who prefer the fruity stainless-steel style may not complain too loudly.

A high proportion of Merlot variety in the blend gives a rich fruity style with a good firm finish.

She suggested instead that the American sparklers had their own fruity "crowd-pleasing style," distinct from the more austere Champagnes, and, in fact, more appealing to Americans.

Even after the development of newer, more efficient wine presses, many ancient and early winemakers still preferred making the lighter colored and fruitier style of wines.

The rosados are made like normal with a light, fruity style while the red wines made with the extra skins are darker in color and more deeply concentrated.

By this argument, today's dry wines have a greater claim to authenticity than the fruity style most people think of as traditional.