A mixture of mussels and snails comes with a fine potato hash; topped with fried leeks, it makes a very pretty dish.

Often, a frippery of crispy fried leeks, celery root or parsley is added for texture.

To serve, place the oysters on a platter, top with a nest of fried leeks and place a spoonful of tartar sauce alongside.

A fish special was also zesty: sauteed black bass, with a thinly sliced potato crust, surrounded by shiitake mushrooms and crisp, fried leeks.

He serves it these days at dinner sauteed on a bed of mashed potatoes with fried leeks.

Grilled glazed salmon set over couscous and topped with a thatch of fried leeks was wonderful.

Mound the fried leeks in the middle of the V and garnish with parsley or basil leaves.

Crisp corn-meal-coated oysters surrounding a centerpiece of crispy fried leeks came closest to winning plaudits at appetizer time.

Garnished with steamed rock shrimp and a tangle of fried leeks, this is the kind of food that relies on fresh ingredients for success ($25.95).

A large, thin rib-eye steak ($17), topped with wispy fried leeks in a roasted shallot-Madeira sauce, was pink perfection.