In 1989, Hopkins founded his own fragrance company.

The use of captives thus offers the respective fragrance company, at least for a limited time, a commercial advantage over their competitors.

"By jacking up the number of new launches the fragrance companies are just replacing volume," he said.

Retailers often have to referee squabbles among fragrance companies for the best positions.

After a time he moved back to Paris and became the International director of a major fragrance company.

Some fragrance companies let buyers do their own customizing too.

Of course, just because a fragrance company hits a hot button one year does not mean its scent will resonate in years to come.

A publisher and two fragrance companies hope the sweet smell of success will emanate from an unusual joint marketing program.

In addition to creating appealing images, fragrance companies are trying to make scent easy both to buy and to try.

Many of these fragrance companies have been bought in recent years by conglomerates with presumably deep pockets.