There, I watched elderly artisans rebuilding antique chairs, fitting fabulous heavy Florentine damasks over horsehair cushions.

The counterman complied as the elderly artisan shoved a piece of silver at him and hurriedly hid the rest, as if reminded of his fear.

This elderly artisan called to mind one of Obidos's most illustrious women, a 17th-century artist known simply as Josefa of Obidos.

Ganjifa playing cards are also traditionally made in Nirmal, but as of February 2011, only one elderly artisan was still making them.

The elderly artisans create belts (€70 to €100), watch straps (€40 to €90), bags, picture frames, travel cases and other such elegant stuff.