Seasonal main courses currently include roasted wild bass with blue crab ravioli; whole truffled sweetbreads with winter mushrooms, and caramelized pheasant with chanterelles.

Yum, on Gleneagles Road in Greenside (00 27 11 486 1645 ) has a minimalist interior and fabulous contemporary cuisine: crab ravioli, apricot-glazed duck and bitter chocolate tart.

You can see it in appetizers like crab ravioli, actually sweet crab meat sandwiched between thin sheets of pasta, which is wonderful in a terrific broth, fragrant of lemongrass and kaffir lime.

Specialties include coquilles St.-Jacques and a duo of rock lobster (langouste) and crab ravioli.

Memorable starters, in addition to the crabmeat cheesecake, included crab ravioli, with its tender meat and earthy spinach.

More unusual and every bit as winning was the crab ravioli with a tart lime-soy dip.

Try the exquisitely cooked pasta with clams, the crab ravioli or, when in season, the deep-fried zucchini.

Blue crab ravioli with basil aioli in crab consommé may be one of the chef's simplest dishes but it is suffused with flavor.

Order modern French/fusion dishes: crab ravioli, red tuna topped with foie gras, real rum baba; £23 for three courses.

Typical of Mr. Ruggiero's lighter dishes is a starter of crab ravioli set over spinach and topped with a light shellfish stock sauce emboldened with fresh ginger.