(Breast of chicken sauteed with cherry peppers, fennel and garlic, available for $15 from Pinocchio.)

She'd chosen chicken sauteed in wine and rosemary, with wild rice and asparagus.

Bite-size nuggets of chicken sauteed in olive oil and garlic were dried out on one occasion, better on a second try.

One evening entree choices were Chilean sea bass and jumbo shrimp in a tomato-tinged broth, fall-away-tender chicken sauteed with red and yellow peppers and a veal stew with peas.

A mighty portion of chicken sauteed with red wine retained its juiciness and pleased almost as much.

My favorites here are the countrified dishes, like the cut-up chicken sauteed with lots of rosemary and parsley and sweetened with balsamic vinegar.

Sauteed squid with curry sauce ($9.95) is another peppery dish, a contrast to a cooler dish like strips of chicken sauteed with green peppers ($8.95), which seems almost Chinese except for the lemongrass.

Ravioli stuffed with crab meat was overwhelmed by the heavy spinach cream sauce covering it, while the chicken sauteed with olives and the small vinegary peppers known as pepperoncini was ruined by salt.

One entree that I especially liked was chicken sauteed with lemongrass and chilies ($10).

They tore pieces of injera and scooped up morsels of chicken sauteed with butter, onions and berbere.