Satiny pirogies ($4.50), light potato and cheese dumplings, also came with the creme and a mound of caramelized onions.

Túrógombóc (Hungarian sweet quark cheese dumpling)

Small lamb chop "lollipops" were perfectly cooked, but the blue cheese dumpling was heavy without a perceptibly cheesy taste.

Other dishes available include štruklji (cheese dumplings) and jota (a thick soup of beans and salt pork).

The restaurant specializes in wrapped dishes, among them steamed spinach and herbed cheese dumplings.

Banish every association that "cheese dumpling" suggests, and start afresh.

Spajza (00386 1 425 3094), a simpler, more rustic establishment, serves exquisite combinations (monkfish with truffles; venison with sour cheese dumpling; dandelion salad with potato, ham and eggs).

The restaurant serves Tyrolean specialities such as Kasnocken (cheese dumplings) and Brotsuppe (bread soup).

Kasnocken (cheese dumplings) are a popular meal, as are freshwater fish, particularly trout, served in various ways.

Local favourites include sarmalute (spicy pork in cabbage leaves) and papanasi (sweet cheese dumplings).