This League of Nations approach includes side-by-side dishes like a pu pu platter, pirogies, matzoh-ball soup, seafood gumbo, hummus, paella, fried chicken and tofu ravioli, along with brasserie fare like choucroute garni and shellfish platters.

The straightforward brasserie fare is consistently satisfying.

Otherwise, try the Auberge-du-Quai for seafood, brasserie fare and a terrace overseeing the port (33 Rue Amiral Reveillère; 0033 298 697265, menus from £13).

The chef, Julian Alonzo, offers updated brasserie fare, including ceviche and suckling pig.

Our other entree was not exactly robust brasserie fare, but nevertheless fulfilled its promise perfectly: crispy skin salmon served over baby pink lentils tickled with a carrot-ginger reduction.

You can watch a small army of toqued cooks in the raised show kitchen toil over classic French brasserie fare.

The menu ranges from simple sandwiches to the more standard brasserie fare of well-realised salads and grills.

The bandstand is in a low pit in a corner; on its level at small tables are the people there for the music, and up a level is a balcony filled with people eating standard French brasserie fare.

In style it diverges from the brasserie fare of the other leviathans, leaning more to the nouvelle-classical canon.

It is France before the dilution of old-fashioned bistro and brasserie fare.