Our only mundane dish was lobster with black-bean sauce.

The kitchen sets a gold standard, particularly for black-bean sauce and noodles.

On one occasion, we thought we were ordering crabs with a spicy-sweet black-bean sauce.

A labor-intensive but terrific tasting platter is whole crabs in black-bean sauce ($9.95).

The porgy that was happily swimming that morning will rest in a black-bean sauce by sunset.

To make the beef, in a shallow bowl combine two tablespoons black-bean sauce, vegetable oil and garlic.

Another winner was wonderful giant steamed scallops with their orange roe and a black-bean sauce ($5.50 each).

A better way to go is with the sauteed squid with black-bean sauce and green peppers.

Another special, jumbo shrimp in black-bean sauce, was enticing, just salty enough to keep you coming back.

There's always beef in black-bean sauce or prawns with lemon and ginger for the meek.