Crepes, folded into crisp half-moons that enclose savory potato puree, are a forcefully flavored appetizer, as is crisp Armenian flatbread, topped like a little pizza with ground beef, tomato sauce and spices.

Other appetizers are more explosively flavored, like terrific crepes, folded into crisp half-moons that enclose savory potato puree, and served with a deeply garlicky sour cream dipping sauce ($7), or crisp Armenian flatbread, topped like a little pizza with ground beef, tomato sauce and spices ($5).

It is possible to select less predictable fare by ordering clams Genovese, topped with bacon and crumbs and baked in a basil-butter sauce, or the paper-thin bresaola, air-dried beef, glossed with olive oil and lemon, surrounding a centerpiece of fresh figs.

The kimchi (pickled Chinese cabbage with chillies) is searing, the barbecues (£7 to £11.50) are done on your table and the bibimbab - rice served in a sizzling pot topped with thinly sliced beef, preserved vegetables and chilli-laced soybean paste - the best in town.

This is the real deal: these are the folks who gave the world the Philly cheese steak - thinly sliced, quickly grilled beef, slapped onto an Italian roll, slathered with Cheez-Whiz, topped with onions.