This bright little takeout storefront is serious about authentic barbecue.

Do Island diners want authentic or ersatz barbecue?

The owner, Max Brumbach, is a serious advocate of lazy hardwood smoking to create authentic barbecue.

The ribs don't pretend to be authentic barbecue; Ms. Mangrum bakes them slowly in the oven rather than smoking them over a wood fire, but they are delicious just the same.

Opened in 1988 on Willow Street in downtown Syracuse, it specializes in authentic barbecue, using a wood-fueled barbecue pit.

The baby back ribs served here don't pretend to be authentic barbecue.

This is not authentic barbecue.

But as far as authentic barbecue goes, they don't come close.

They offer an assortment of authentic regional southern wood-smoked barbecue.