Among new entrees are achiote pan-seared Louisiana shrimp and crab meat gumbo, and charred split baby chicken with Hatch chili sauce.

The best salad offers succulent grilled Louisiana shrimp over arugula.

Among entrees, one example of a homespun combination propelled into the 90's is perfectly grilled Louisiana shrimp served over creamed corn with asparagus tips and seasoned with fresh tarragon.

To begin, there is tomato consomme over Louisiana shrimp with caviar, and steamed squash blossoms filled with a chicken and wild mushroom mixture.

Current offerings include appetizers of stuffed zucchini blossoms with chicken and black truffles; cold tomato consomme finished with Louisiana shrimp and chervil, and ginger-scented salmon paired with a seaweed salad.

Louisiana grilled shrimp and chorizo, served over red beans and rice, along with braised spinach, proved a winning alliance; the sausage was unusually spicy and satisfying.

Avoid the pallid corn-and-clam chowder with rubbery morsels of clam ($5.50), and go instead with the grilled Louisiana shrimp over white beans with pancetta ($10.95).

Main courses: steak au poivre with french fries; grilled Louisiana shrimp; roast chicken with spinach and mashed potatoes, and grilled salmon with corn and cilantro.

There is Louisiana shrimp and fettuccine with a creamy pesto vinaigrette, white beans, sweet tomatoes and Parmesan, and penne with a creamy garlic vinaigrette and chanterelles and prosciutto.