But among California producers and those who follow wine closely, the wines have provoked sharp debate.

It pays, obviously, for California producers to keep the action close to home.

In 1997, it upheld federal assessments on California producers of peaches and other "tree fruit."

"A California producer wanted a cemetery," she said, "and it had to have enough space to bury a car."

Michael York is on hand to play a California producer of, yes, music videos.

She added: "Many California producers have been forced to cut prices.

But the California producers began to find themselves in the mid-1990's.

So do many California producers, who say that both varietals are being overproduced.

Soon, said a California producer, who asked not to be identified, "guns are going to be easier to buy than my chardonnay."

The family says it spurned a previous approach from a California producer and promoter because his ideas would have brought them into the pop realm.