tie-waist

"Make sure to avoid clingy pullovers and opt for a button or tie-waist cardigan to speed up the security process," he says.

That dichotomy transformed athletic jersey shirts into loose dresses with tie-waist constructions that floated behind the models like the extravagant tiers of a formal Charles James gown.

More at home were the linen items, like a pair of tie-waist white pants that would be flattering only on a young James Spader ($145), and a mysterious article with elastic midway through its torso, but no legs.

He obviously has worked hard to expand his collection, build up separates like cute shorts, tie-waist dresses and ribbon-edged knits, but the Sister Parrish colors and the dated feel of guipure lace (for a peplum top) crowded out the youthful pieces.

Sarah Vosper has created a mini collection of three pieces with the label: a tie-waist jumpsuit, a top that owes something to the mullet with its longer back, and a sweater (pictured, $299, on sometime model Vosper), all made from black merino jersey.

This year also sees the launch of the brand's White Shirt collection, a selection of eight different takes on the wardrobe staple - one which Herrera herself professes to wear most days - including tie-waist details, pussybow collars, peplums and corset references, all modelled in a new campaign by British supermodel Jacquetta Wheeler.