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In this event allow sufficient space between shaft ends for end float and misalignment.
The end float can be completely taken out by simply moving the mast stop collar up against the ballrace as intended!
Obviously, the resultant end float had caused the rattling noise through the transmission on my Champ.
The other point that is misleading is the problem of end float on the main mast and having to shim it.
I have not problems with the bike at all, it just sounds funny to me, end float in the camshaft can be cured by shimming.
The starter drive gear runs on two needle roller bearings, and a bronze thrust washer controls end float.
If you have access to a test dial indicator, or dial micrometer, take out the wheel and measure the end float of the spindle.
However if the assembly is such that the required end float does not exist, a gap may be developed between the torque pin diaphragm and its retainer.
Ball bearings do take up some axial loads though which roller bearings can't take up and will make end float adjustments redundant.
Layshaft Bronze Thrust Washers - These have oil rings machined into them and must be replaced if end float of the laygear exceeds approx. 0.010".
Also within the range are Disc and Drum Brake versions, Spacer Couplings and minimum end float Couplings.
Two recommendations relate to reviewing the end float and alignment requirements for the class 14x final drives and ensuring that any changes to the setup of safety critical components are validated.
If the torque pin and retainer are correctly assembled to the brake and torque rod, a clearance should exist to permit limited end float of the torque pin assembly.
Place the camshaft in crankcase-half 3 & 4 with new cam bearings and check end float ( you can use a feeler-gauge strip between the cam bearings and cam thrust face).
RAIB established that the seizure of the bearing was due to the setup of the bearings during overhaul which resulted in a lack of end float in the bearings when in operation.
Again I am treated with disbelief when I suggest that to get rid of a misfire you split your 916 engine and re-shim the jack-shaft end float, and check the play on the jackshaft bearings.
Fit one of the new main bearings to the crank (say, the drive side) then use the old loose fitting inner race on the timing side to establish what shims are required to get the correct end float.
It had been reconditioned so one would expect no trouble but it had been reassembled with a dry end bearing, the hot end, and fitted with an end float spacer that effectively blocked the oil hole.
Other vehicles of the 1960s era, including some Vauxhalls, had lower ball joints with considerable end float, because the joint was always in tension as the spring and damper loads were applied via the lower control arm and were always non-zero.
This must be checked with someone pushing down on the clutch pedal; this is to ensure that the crank is pushed forward to the limit of its end float, otherwise the crank float will take up the backlash on the dynamo bevel gears.
Or if no torque wrench, tighten the nut until you can feel a drag in the wheel movement; then turn back by one castellation at a time until the wheel is free and you can just feel some end float when you grab the wheel and shake.
I wouldn't try to shim up the end float, first of all because there's nothing available from Kawasaki to do it and it would be tricky to make suitable shims up, and secondly as the end float means the camchain is self aligning.