More harmonious are the firm-fleshed cobia (also known as ling) from gulf waters or sauteed cabillaud (fresh cod) garnished with citrus slices and basil butter.

The best fish sampled was paillard of salmon with basil butter.

Meanwhile, combine the basil, mint, spinach, Parmesan, butter, garlic, salt and pepper in the bowl of a food processor and process until fairly smooth.

Chicken salad sandwiches with almonds, on bread spread with basil butter, were piled on a plate.

We had memorable ravioli with eggplant and ricotta stuffing in a basil butter; and tonnarelli with clams and asparagus.

Swordfish with sun-dried tomatoes and basil butter for $18.95, tuna with green peppercorns for $18.95, and bouillabaisse for $21.95 are among the featured dishes.

Another special, broiled swordfish with basil butter, was more mundane, with little flavor, although the accompanying vegetables - buttery broccoli flowers and carrot shards - were delicious.

Tuna steak with basil butter ($13) was overly charred and a tad dry.

An herbed, grilled half-chicken, calf's liver with onions, and grilled tuna with basil butter are recommended entrees.

Fresh swordfish, lightly grilled glistening with basil butter, was also delicious.